Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard

The age-old first date questions remain:  “Beach or mountains?”  “City or country?”  It’s important to know what your significant other seeks in their future abode, but what if you just can’t decide?  Well, my faithful readers, that puts you into the same boat as the Ramblin’ Bauers!  That’s why, after so much time hiking in the mountains and making city excursions, we threw in some more sandy fun in the sun at Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard.

If you look at the bicep region of Cape Cod’s flexed arm, you’ll see Nickerson State Park, where Bilbo and I stayed.  Like in Acadia, we knew that the chances of finding a camping spot were slim but went for it anyways. There was one spot left for just two night and that was exactly what we needed.  SUCCESS AGAIN! The extensive list of amenities included showers, flushing toilets, a picnic table, a flat spot for your tent, and s central location between our two destinations.  Come on, people! It’s a campground, you can’t expect many amenities. 

 

Once we had taken care of that little bit of business, the exploring began!  The first afternoon was spent driving the extent of the Cape Cod National Seashore and taking sneak peeks at all of the National Park beaches along the way.  We had to choose our favorite for the next day’s sunbathing.  Do you remember how excited we were about being the only people on the beach at Ocracoke National Seashore?  That was not the case here!  The beaches were all packed.  Just look at the photos!

Here’s a pop quiz:  From where was the first United States to Great Britain transatlantic radio signal sent?  Cape Cod, of course!  The site has been renamed Marconi Beach, after the man who set the whole thing up.  The station itself no longer stands, but a small scale replica is set up to show how this monumental event happened.  This ended up being the beach that we decided to go back to because it was fairly close to our camp.

 

The next day, we were greeted by a morning shower.  Incongruous with beach bumming, the weather was perfect for laundry.  This happened to be Bilbo’s first laundry mat experience.  I suppose it was as good as any could be.  We spent the morning making plans, writing blogs, and listening to Harry Potter audio books.  They advertised WiFi, but forgot to mention that it cost $1/minute.  So we did not post the blogs.  The sun came out as our laundry did, and the rest of the day was open for sunbathing!

Each of us have an embarrassing guilty pleasure, and I have to admit that I have a soft spot for cheesy movies.  One of my favorites is “Three Amigos”, a slap stick comedy with an ugly villain named El Guapo (that means handsome in Spanish).  It was quite the coincidence, therefore, to find a Mexican restaurant in Cape Cod called Guapo’s. 

 

There was no horse-riding, kidnapping, poncho-wearing gang leader there but there was this guy to greet us at the door!

  

The specialty of the house was fish tacos and that is what we got.  We were lucky enough to have fish that had just been brought in, caught only 3 hours earlier!  It was so fresh and smooth…YUM!  However, we still prefer WV’s own Tricky Fish for a good fish taco. 

The next morning ended our two night stay at Nickerson and brought on our last day in the area.  We decided to forego a trip to Nantucket because the ferry ride was outrageous--$40 per person each way!  Yikes!  The Martha’s Vineyard ferry was much more reasonable, though.   

 

We took the Island Queen from Cape Cod to Martha’s Vineyard and arrived in Oak Bluffs (at the top right of the map). We didn’t want to spend a lot of money on transportation on the island and we didn’t have a lot of time, so we decided to just stay in Oak Bluffs for a half day.  Below, you can see the port where we came in and the street where we entered town. 

One of the most popular attractions on Martha’s Vineyard is the Flying Horses Carousel.  It is the oldest operating platform carousel in America, built in 1876.  We didn’t ride, but peeked in for a picture.

Another popular feature of the Oak Bluffs area is the village of gingerbread cottages, circling the Methodist Tabernacle (the picture to the far right).  The village began as a tent campground for those coming to the Methodist Tabernacle revivals.  Eventually, the tents were replaced by cottages with elaborate gingerbread ornamentation.  We had a nice stroll through the loop, picking out our favorite cottages.  Bilbo liked the pink one and I liked the ones with an array of colors.

   

After the cottages, we went looking for the lighthouse.  The town’s self-guided tour brochure pointed the way for a one mile walk up to the site.  Then…we went the wrong way.  There were no regrets, though.  We walked through some lovely neighborhoods, saw what seemed like a million hydrangeas, and even made it to the lighthouse. 

   

On the way back down, which happened to be the right way, we saw an impressive church and this amazing house…

   

and we made it back down just in time to see our ship come in…or our ferry, that is.  So we boarded up and that ended our day on Martha’s Vineyard.

   

It wasn’t as pristine or impressive as we had expected, and the crowds were thicker than we like.  Considering this, Ocracoke continues to hold the top island spot for us.  Don’t underestimate the Vineyard, though!  It was a great time! 

Boston

What movies have you seen lately?  How about “The Fighter” or “The Town”?  Both movies are about Bostonians, a rising trend in my opinion.  These movies tell the tale of men and women living in present day Boston, but Bilbo and I went to this great city to learn about the history it holds.  Don’t be overwhelmed by the dorkiness, though! We still enjoyed some of the city’s modern touches. 

Despite our transition into the city scene, the RB’s stayed true to our rustic camping.  We stayed at Wompatuck State Park, just outside of Boston.  As far as the park is concerned, we’ve seen better, be we were still happy to have showers after a week without.  The camping accommodations weren’t the purpose of this trip, anyways!  It was the city.…
 

We found a parking spot under the Boston Common then set our path to the visitor’s center to obtain objective number one:  get Freedom Trail map.  With our pre-trip research, we found that the Freedom Trail is the way to go if you want to see Boston’s historic sites.  I’m not going to lie, the map that the city sales is a bit steep…$3!  It was nice to have because it shows where the trail will lead, what sites to look for, and gives a description of each site. 
Here’s what we saw…

Massachusetts State House

 
The Massachusetts State House was built between 1795 and 1798, with the cornerstone laid by Paul Revere and Samuel Adams.  The building is said to be the archetype for American government buildings.  It’s golden dome marks the zero-mile in MA. 

Burying Grounds

 

    

Boston has three historic burying grounds: Old Granary Burying Ground, King’s Chapel Burying Ground, and Copp’s Hill Burying Ground.  Many famous names can be found there including John Hancock, Samuel Adams and the parents of Ben Franklin. 

King’s Chapel

 

The original building of King’s Chapel was built in 1689.  What makes the church unique is that a new building was constructed around the original, and pieces of the original were then carried out of the new structures windows.  The pulpit dates back to 1717, making it one of the oldest in America. 

Old City Hall/First Public School

  

This was the site of America’s first public school, which was attended by Benjamin Franklin, Samuel Adams, and John Hancock.  It was called Boston Latin School and is still functioning at a different location.  Latin remains a requirement for all students.

Park Street Church
  

This church, located on the old granary, boasts a number of firsts.  Among these are William Lloyd Garrison’s first anti-slavery speech and the first recital of “My Country ‘tis of Thee”.  In the 1800’s its steeple was the first thing seen by travelers upon reaching the city.

Old State House
(and man playing “One-Man-Band” instrument outside of it)

 

During the Revolution, the Old State House (then the Towne House) reminded citizens of the British presence.  The Royal Governor presided here until the state house was moved to Beacon Hill.  In 1776, Bostonians gathered around the balcony (you can see it in the right hand picture) where the Declaration of Independence was read for the first time in MA.

Quincy Market

Quincy Market isn’t actually part of the Freedom Trail, but it’s right beside Faneuil Hall and has been around since the 1800’s.  It was Boston’s second marketplace, the first having been Faneuil Hall, and initially consisted of produce, meats, and farm goods.  Now it is full of little bakeries, cafes, and other food shops.  It was very packed, very noisy, and we weren’t hungry so we left quickly. 

Faneuil Hall

 

As I said above, Faneuil Hall was the first marketplace in Boston.  It was much more, though.  Citizens used it as a place to discuss political views, make speeches, and stir up revolutions.  Samuel Adams and Frederick Douglass are notable occupants of the platform.

Bell and Hand Tavern

Also not an official part of the Freedom Trail, the Bell and Hand Tavern is a site along the way.  We didn’t go in but took a picture because it is the oldest tavern in Boston.

Paul Revere House

 
No further introduction needed…this was the house of Paul Revere.

Little Italy and Around Town
 

While following the red line that marked our path, we passed Little Italy (above) and saw quite a few cozy little lanes (below).

Old North Church

Old North Church is Boston’s oldest church building, but that’s not its main claim to fame.  It was in the steeple of this church that Paul Revere’s comrade, Robert Newman, set the light that warned of the Red Coats’ impending attack.  Good old Paul gets all of the credit, though.

Bunker Hill Monument

This monument commemorates the first major battle of the American Revolution, fought June 17, 1775.  It stands 221 feet high and occupies the tip of Breed’s Hill. 

USS Constitution
 

The last site on the Freedom Trail was the USS Constitution at Charlestown Shipyard.  First launched in 1797, it remains the world’s oldest commissioned warship afloat.  To hear about her history check out the War of 1812.  Americans are allowed to board the ship to tour, but we did not.  There was too much confusion within the line, it was very hot, and we were very tired. 

On the Water Shuttle

Instead, we boarded the water shuttle back to the other side of the harbor.  From there we returned across the Boston Gardens and Boston Common to our car, went to the grocery store, then settled in for the night.  After all, we needed to plan out our next day! 

Our second day in Boston consisted of everything that we didn’t see the day before.  First, the location I had been salivating over…

Brattle Books

It is a used book store that specializes in antiques and first editions.  AMAZING!!!!!  Unfortunately, it’s closed on Sundays so we were stuck on the outside looking in.  At least I got to see what the outdoor area looks like, but I have to continue dreaming about what is inside. 

China Town

Right after Brattle Books was a walk through China Town.  It was much less crowded and dirty than NYC’s contemporary.  That may have been because we were there on a Sunday morning, though.  There was no time to linger there because we were in pursuit of Trinity Church’s morning prayer service.

Boston Public Library

On our trot we had a moment to pause in front of the Boston Public Library.  It was the first free public library in America, founded in 1848.

Trinity Church

 

 

With time to spare, we arrived at Trinity Church.  It is an Episcopal parish founded in 1733 and is consistently voted among America’s ten finest buildings.  To see the majesty just look above!  There are innumerable stained glass windows throughout the sanctuary—on the periphery and lining the overhead dome—which depicted Biblical themes and scenes.  The woodworking within and without was all intricate, as was the stone work.  Just as impressive as the aesthetics was the welcoming atmosphere of the congregation and clergy.  There was no distance put between the “regulars” and the visitor, despite the undoubted volume and frequency of guests that they encounter.  After the service, all were invited to enjoy coffee and chat.  If you are traveling and need to feel connected to the family of God, I would recommend this church!

Legal Seafood

With our spirits filled it was time to do the same for our bellies.  In the book “1,000 Places to See Before You Die”, the author recommends Legal Seafood.  The restaurant’s motto is, “If it’s not fresh, it’s not Legal” and theirs is said to be the best clam chowder in New England.  As you could probably guess, we both had the clam chowder for lunch.  We differed in dessert choices.  Bilbo had that lovely glass with chocolate moose and I had the Boston cream pie.  I must say that the chowder was the best that either of us have ever had and the pie was AWESOME!  Go to Legal Seafood if you get the chance.  They have expanded to more locations outside of Boston, all of the way down to Florida.  

Museum of Fine Art

The last attraction to see before blowing the Boston popsicle stand was the Museum of Fine Art.  The walk from Legal Seafood to the museum was a doozy, so we took the T (Boston’s train system).  Like China Town, Boston’s version of the subway was cleaner, less crowded, and less hectic.  We didn’t have to push a single person to procure a spot on the train!  We arrived above ground, right on the museum’s front steps.  It was much better than walking in the heat! 

   

The Museum of Fine Art was featuring a special exhibit called “Through the Looking Glass”, where an artist had made many whimsical structures completely out of glass.  It was bright, brilliant, and beautiful.  I enjoyed this exhibit best, even though it had nothing to do with Louis Carroll’s book—which happens to be my favorite book. 

 

Bilbo’s favorite exhibit in a museum is invariably the impressionist paintings, especially Monet. 

 

We saw a few of Picasso's works as well as many others.  The only styles of painting that are not appreciated by the RB’s are medieval and modern. We usually just skim quickly through those sections.  

   

However, we did enjoy this medieval carving.  It is lacking that over-the-top, strange faces, and tacky golden paint look. 

 

There was an exhibit with sarcophagi, Egyptian statues, and grave items.  Below is an impressive example of a royalty statue.

The Asian collection at this museum was the largest that we have ever seen.  There were at least 30 medium to large Buddhas as well as other Asian religious items and furnishings.

  

Fine art made a fine ending to our Boston trip.  A short ride on the T and another trip to Whole Foods found us back at Wompatuck and getting ready for the next day’s adventure.  As you know, we’ll tell you about that next time!